Mt Gulaga aka Mt Dromedary

Mt Gulaga viewed from Narooma

Located in the Gulaga National Park and looking over the historical towns of Tilba Tilba and Central Tilba, Mt Gulaga is a culturally significant area for the local Yuin people. She is said to be the mother of Little Mt Dromedary (Pictured Below) to the East of the Highway (the child that couldn’t let go of the apron strings) and Montague Island ( the child who wanted to go fishing out at sea). Mt Gulaga can often be shrouded in fog and mist which is said to be her possum skin coat.

Apparently in 1770 it earned its European name from the two humps of the Mountain joined by the saddle and resembling a camels distinct shape. This saddle marks the site of significance with giant stone tors protruding from the mountain top in almost unbelievable shapes, stacked boulders and views to the coastline add to the beauty of the location.

I started the hike from the town store at Tilba Tilba. Parking the car on a drizzly morning and ensuring my pack contained my food and water for the day. Walking up a long driveway between houses and unsure if I was in the right spot... should I be walking up someone’s driveway?? It was the right way and after about a kilometre passing rural residences (that I would give a kidney for) and a stunning tree beside a trickling stream I reached a National Parks sign marking the edge of the Gulaga National Park.

I continued along the trail, a slightly overgrown vehicle access road which was wet from recent rain but firm. Small trickling streams carved wrinkles into the track surface. I was aware of a point about halfway up that is meant to lead toward the European history of the mountain... gold mining. The Mountain was heavily mined during the mid 1800's and remains of the mining activity are allegedly still present. Although after management of the National Park was transferred into the hands of its traditional owners I can only assume this part of its history is being purposely forgotten as I could find no trace of the track leading to the site of the mining. I will try again one day.

I continued on a bit frustrated but quickly pushed it to the back of my mind as I came to a stunning fern and moss lined creek cascading down the mountain. It doesn’t get much more tranquil then this. Working my way along the creek I spotted a colourful creature foraging on the floor of a rockpool. With a sneaky, behind his back swoop with my right hand ( my favourite hand) I pinched him behind the claws and lifted him up to say g’day. After a quick photo he was returned to the water.

Continuing on saw the non stop climb continue and rain start to drizzle. It actually added to the peacefulness of the hike so it was welcome, it seemed to soften the sounds of everything except the patter on the leaves above me. Stopping at the saddle for a look at an information board, a quick bite to eat and a bit of a breather I decided to continue to the summit to see the view. The walk to the summit will see you passing fern and moss covered rocks, some boulders and tors, vines and any other foresty feature you would picture in a book about fairies. A stunning bit of the walk which made up for the lack of that 180 degree view of the coastline at the top. The mountain should have cracking views given its height and close proximity to the coast and Wallaga Lake but unfortunately the tree growth inhibits any clear view. Not to say the hints of blue ocean backdrop through the trees isnt spectacular.

I tried my luck on the Western side of the summit working my way past tuxedo wearing gums and securing a small section of view to the valleys toward Bega. A bit of lunch near the trig point, a laugh at the sign claiming that there is no gold left on the mountain and adding a single stone before making my way back toward the saddle. The drizzle had come and gone throughout my hike but had settled in by the time I got back to the saddle. It wasn’t heavy but just enough misty rain to add to the theatre of the rock formations I was about to see.

Boulders stacked on boulders, rocks forming tall peni...... noodle like shapes and views that I was hoping for toward Bermagui. I enjoyed the views before the mountain put her possum skin coat on and the mountain was enveloped in fog.

The hike back down seemed long and by the time I had made it back to the car I couldn’t decide if I was sweaty or just soggy from the rain. I think it was both. The hike was moderate with some restrictive parts for those lacking great mobility and sections of steep incline. The climb is constant with limited flat areas to ease up.

Tip: Check the weather conditions before you go and aim for a time after good rain to enjoy the flowing creeks and greater chance of getting that misty fog adding to the experience.

The crucial bits:

Where: Tilba Tilba South or Narooma on the Far South Coast, NSW.

National Park: Gulaga

Height: 806m

Distance: 11kms

Time: 5 hours

Take: Food and water, good footwear, appropriate clothing for the season.

Mobile Coverage: Yes

Nearby attractions: Historic Central Tilba shops and cheese factory, Foxglove gardens. Bermagui Blue pools, horse head and camel rocks.

Directions: Head South on the Princes Highway from Narooma - Turn right onto Corkhill Drive and continue past Central Tilba to Pams Store at Tilba Tilba - Park and walk up driveway/Mt Dromedary Trail.